![]() ![]() You're suggesting there will be a problem before it even exists. If I have to switch instruments I'd rather do it between sets or between songs where I have a few seconds to tweak things. Even if there is no string slippage the difference between room temperature in the 70's and when your hands warm the strings up to around 90 degrees the pitch can change several cents in pitch and wind up sounding sharp when you first pick the instrument up. Stringed instruments tend to detune when you set them down. I used to do that stuff for show but I really learned to dislike it. No big deal and no need for any crazy wiring to pedals. When I set one down I'd kill its sound with a volume knob and when I picked the next one up I'd crank its volume up. I'd simply leave the amp on and instruments volume turned off. Personally I used to do allot of instrument swapping live. If you had a 4 or 5 way you could probably even have settings for multiple amps to be switched on in case you're switching instruments live. Wiring a simple 3 way rotary switch would be easy so long as its connection patterns are straight forward. The box could be much smaller and you could easily epoxy a larger foot pad to a flat metal knob or even drill through the knob and screw the pad on. Heres a picture of what I'm talking about. Wired up properly with a proper knob rigged up you'd be able to easily rotate this knob with your foot. On my old Mestro Parametric EQ/Drive pedal they used a rotary switch with a foot pad knob. ![]() Its not my own but it does work quite well. 3 amplifiers makes it more complex because they simply don't make stomp switches which will scroll between three connections. I run stereo amps in my studio and I'm able to swap between them fairly easily because switches toggle between two states. I suppose a loop box could be incorporated but I'd really need to study your gear and know all the possible connection options. Typically loop boxes are used for adding an removing pedals. You'd likely want to buffer the signal as well which may be good or bad depending on your situation. ![]() The cost isn't that expensive and you can actually save on the cost of the switches. You can do this using simple triggered gate/latch circuitry. ![]() If one amps on and two are off - you press all switches and you have two on and one off. If you use three switches you can select any or all to be on. you could wire one switch A/B/Y and the second simply on/off but that would leave one amp dominant. You can mount them close enough together where you can activate multiple switches at the same time with a shoe if you choose. If you want to switch between three amps using passive switches then using two or three stomp switches may wind up being the cheapest solution. They weren't all that durable and its likely cheaper to do it using transistorized switching and a single momentary switch. Unfortunately I haven't been able to find those kinds of switches in ages. Years back they did make some push button switches which were dual action you pushed it once and you had one connection, push it twice you had a second connection and the third time it would shut off.įor a single stomp switch to toggle between three amps you'd need that kind of triple action switch. You can have single, double, triple and quadruped throw switches but the are all on an off. The fix is having all amps on the same outlet to avoid having AC flow from one chassis to another.Īs far as having an A/B/C box, most foot switches are on/off type. When one does exist your solution doesn't fix the problem, it simply masks it. I've used all kinds of A/B boxes and the only time there is hum is when a ground loop exists. Without transformer isolated outputs you will run into hum problems under the wrong circumstances.You're suggesting there will be a problem before it even exists. I use the Radial Shotgun and the Palmer splitters - these are not footswitchable, but have little switches. To split a guitar signal i recommend something with transformer isolated outputs. ![]()
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